Garment trimming apparatus



June 12, 194`5 J. scHLEslNGER 2,377,907

GARMENT TRIMMING APPARATUS Filed Nov. 29, 1940 4 sheets-sheet 1 June 12, 1945- J. scHLEslNGR 2,377,907

GRMENT TRIMMING APPARATUS Filed Nov. 29, 1940 4 Sheets-@Sheet 2 INVENTOR TToRNEY June 12, 1945 J. scHLEslNGER GARMENT TRIMMING APPARATUS Filed Nov. 29.` 1940 4 sheets-sheet 's June 12, 1945. L SCHLESlNGER 2,377,907

GARMENT TRIMMING APPARATUS Filed Nov. 29, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 z lvNTpR ATTORNE Patented June 12, 1945 UNlrEDgysTATss PATENT oFFlcs cmiRMEN'rl TRIMMING APPARATUS Jacob Schlesinger, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Man-Sew Pinkng Attachment Corp., New York,

N. Y., a corporation of New York Application November 29, 1940, Serial No. 367,727

21` Claims. (Cl. 164-71) My invention relates to cutting apparatus used for trimming the bottom of garments supported on a form, this operation being known as sloplng. s

One of the objects of my invention is to provide novel apparatus of this nature which 'is `power driven and which may be utilized without adaptation on any garment, irrespective of the size thereof.

. Another object of my invention is to simplify the mechanism by applying a truecutting, rather thana shearing action, to the garment bottom, using a single cutting edge to accomplish this.

Another objectfof my invention is to combine with such sloping apparatus, means for marking the bottom ofthe cutgarments toindicate the desired hem thereof; t

Other objects of my invention will-be apparent from the following description, it `being understood that the above general statements of the objects of my invention are intended to describe and not to limit it in any manner.

`In the accompanyingdrawings,showing a preferred `embodiment of my invention,

Fig. 1' is anelevation vshowing the device in dot and dashilines ready foruse, thefull lines indicating theiinoperativeiposition. l f

Fig.2 is a section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 isa section along the 1ine3-3 of Fig. L Fig. iv is a top plan view of the apparatus. `Fig. 5 is a section along .the line 5-5 of Fig. '7. Fig. 6 is a fragmentary section along the line G-B of Fig. 5. f

Fig. 7 is a section alongthe line I-I yof Fig. 4. Fig. 8 is an enlarged View illustrating the cutting action.

- Fig. 9 is a section along the line 9I9 of Fig. 4. Fig. 10 is a section along the line III-I0 of Fig. 4. f v i Fig. y11 is a section along the line II--II of Fig. 5.

Fig. 12 is` a section along the line I2-fl2 of Referring in detail to Figs. 1-3 of thedrawings, the numeral I5 indicates a basesupporting an electric motor I6 whichthrough suitable reduction gearing II, drives the pinion gear I8. The gear I8 meshes with thespur gear I9 which is secured to the shaft 20, so that said shaft 20 rotates within the ball-bearings 2| and 22. The

shaft 20 is maintained against longitudinal displacement by the collar 20a.` The shaft 20 `supports and rotates the dress form 23 byvirtue of a frictional t with the telescopi'ng arm 24. yThis frictional flt isA suchas to permit relative rotary 55 movement of the dress form when a particular force is applied thereto, as when the operator wishes to adjust the form prior to the trimming operation. However, the frictional fit is sufficient to drive the arm24 by the shaft 25.

A rodV 25, disposed rearwardly4 of the form 23 is provided with indicia 26 and an adjustable arm 2l with respect to which the form is raised or lowered according to the desired length of the garment to be cut. The form may beretained in its adjusted position by a manually operable mechanism well known in the art and comprising a pedal 28 adapted to actuate a rod 29 which is freely disposed in a longitudinal bore of the shaft 2i! and arm 24. Suitable gripping mechanism not shown is operated bythe rod 29 andserves to clutch the upper end, not shown, of the arm 24 and retain the form at the desired height. The depression of the pedal 28 serves to contract the gripping mechanism, which is normally in the expanded condition, so that the form 23 may be raised or lowered. If the pedal 28 is depressed without manually supporting the `form 23, the weight thereof may overcome the frictional nt between the shaft and arm 24. and the buffer" spring 30 will absorb the shock of the fall thereof. I i

Preferably, however, the arm 24 carries a set screw 24' -or equivalent device for releasably locking the same to the shaft 20 and to insure a driving connection between said arm and shaft notwithstanding frictional wear of the contacting surfaces.

Also supported on the base- I 5 is the post 3| to which is pivotally connected the sleeve 32 of the bracket 33. The bracket 33 is provided with ears 3ft which pivotally support the cutting mechanism.

The cutting mechanism comprises the motor 35 having its shaft 36 connected to the sleeve 37 through the coupling mechanism 38 and spindle 38a which is integral with sleeve 31 and rotates within the bushing 38h. Connected to the head 39 of the sleeve 3'Iv by the bolt 40 is a circular knife blade 4i which is Vthus directly driven at high speed by the motor 35.

The circular blade 4I is disposed between rotatable members 42 and 43 which assist in drawing the dress fabric through the cutting zone. These members are rotated at much less speed than the circular blade 4I which depends on great speed to perform its function properly. The members 42 and 43 are driven from theopposite end of the shaft of the motor 35 through reduction gearing 44 and spiral. gearing 45 to drive the counter shaft spur gear which meshes with the gear 52. Thevv gear 52 is keyed to the member 42 and drives the spindle 53 which is journaled at one end in the bracket 54 and rotates within thel bushing 31a of the sleeve 31. The bracket 54` is secured to the bosses 55 by the bolts 5.5, 56a and 56D, thev bosses 55 being integral with the main casting generally designated as'51.

The fabric F of the dress to be cut isy introduced, ,asl Will be hereinafter described, between the members 42y and' 43'I constituting one side' of thel feeding mechanism; and the member 58 eeny stituting'tle' other side thereof; as seen' in- Fig; 8'.

The spu'r gear ,510 which isA xed to the sleeve l 49 meshes with" the g'a 59, which,- secu-redto the spindle |50, drives' the feed member 58 at the same speed as the feedf members ciands-,aithough intheop'posite direction: The member 58 has an annular' radial' groove 6| `formed in-l theV peripliery4 thereof,` said gr'oove 6| accommodating the circular blade' 4|'l as; se'en Fig. 81.

Mea-n are lirvidedwto Separate the unit -5-2 andthe' unit 63 ofthe malin casting 51 to permit of the initial insertion of the fabric F1 prior to the operation of the feeding and cutting mechanism. Such' mea-ns comprisethe pedal- 64 operatively secured to the rodv which sslidably mountedin the sleeve 66 and which is disposed within the ea'rs 3'4 of the'b'ra'icketv 33. A-pin 65a integral Witlr the rod 55, operates within aslotformed in the sleeve 66 to prevent rotationA of the rod- 65. Abell-crank lever 10,- p'iv'ot'ed at 1| tothe mafincasting 51- has one end' thereof disposed withinther'ece'ss' 125 ofthe rod 65 while the other endV thereof operatively a'buts the push-rod 134 slidably supported by the bearing blocks 14 andV 15. The other end of the push-rod--13, operatively abutsl against the lat'te'ned-l end' of the piny 16, which pin is xedly received within; andi secured by the bolt 11 to, the u'nitz.' f y Y Depression', therefore, ofthe pedal 64 operates the bell-crank lever` 18 which, through the psln rod 13, transmits pressure' to thefpi'n- 16 antiy the unit 62, comprising the base section 18,l the spindie 60- rotating within the sleeve 19 formed on said bas'esection 18, the' spur g'e'ar 59, the feed member 58 and the drum 80, are urged laterally by said pressure to separate the said units 62 and |33v as.. hereinabove noted and for the' purpose described. v f

.The slidable unit 62 is supported on the horizontal bed plate section 8| which is integral with the main frame 51 arid the unit 62 is maintained against any movement other than that of the sliding above described by the tracks 82 vand 83 in the` form of dover-.tail ribs integral with section 8|., .Grooves 82a and 83a, formed in the base section 18v of unit 62, slidably receive the tracks 82 and 83.

Secured to the bed plate section 8| are the pins 84 and 85 whose Shanks' are? disposed in the elongatedslots 86 and 81 .formed in base 18 of the unit .62. Coil springs 88 and `89 each have oneof their terminals connected respectively to the pins 84 aand 85, and the other of their terminals t0 the respective ears 90 and 9| of the slidable unit 62. It will thus be noted that the normal position of the unit 62, as governed by the springs 88 and 89, is that of the closed or operative position and that the abutment of member 5B against members 42 and 43, and the engagementof gears y50 and 59. will determine the limit ofinwardf'moVeIi-lent ofjiuni't. These springs permit of a slight radial yielding movement of the feed member 58 relative to the members 42 and 43 without disengagement of gears 5`8 and 59,* so that the feed means will automatically accommodate itself to fabric materials of varying thickness and avoid excessive frictionalfresistance' to passage of the material between said members with possible disintegration of the' fabric. ItI Will-'also be observed that the depression* of the pedal 64 causes'the unit 62 to slide the length of the elongated slots 86 and 81 against" the action o'f tne coil-springs 88v and' 89.

Mansarals'd provided to automatically draw th'e' garment downwardly and laterally to' insure the accurate trimming thereof.

46 which' drive the bru'sh 93; This brush guides theL material toVv the" cutting disk, preventing the h'eiA from wavering; By disposi-ng it diagonally toward the cutting disk, any accumulation' of I between-the units 52 and G3'I and. the pedal 64 3'5' is releasedthe otat'ing' brush 93 contacts the fabric and i'nsnr'es' the" unwrinkled state of the garment before it is fed to the circular blade 4|.

A garmertmust sloped not only to its desifed lengtnfbutprovision must be' made for a nein, the width ofthe here varying as desired. on different garments'. Means, are providedV in the instant invention to indicate the' desi-red hemline, such means comprising the' arm 94, slidably mounted on the r'o'd 95 and adius't'ably secured supported the' sleeve 91 housing the shell 98 (Fig. 12) which centaineA the'. marking material, such as the wait crayon 99. A coil spring y||l`|| normally urges thewaxl crayon 99futwardly and a screw-threaded cap` |191 operates as an abut- Irient for the spring 99 and' closes the entrance to' the sleeve Q1.

The drum 80, mounted on spindle 88'y and se cured, for example, by theiriut |02 to the erected feed member 581, rotates therewith` and; normally contacts the fabric F. spaced ribs ||l3are`formed on the druinandiwhen? the device is in operationy (Fig.4 9)', the fabric',y fedlbetween the drum 88 and wax crayon 99 is spacedly and intermit t'ently marked when the' ribsl |83 strike the wax crayon 99, the shell 98 recoiling and emerging after each Contact.v In this way, the wax line is rendered more easily removable since it does not' extend entirely around the garment.

While' the garment is being' sloped, the support of the clit fabric is ,desirable so' that its Weight does not affect 'the as yetu-rlcut hem. On the underside f bed plate |84, 'which is` integral wtli'member 8|, is pivoted, by means of' the stud the member |88 Vfoiin'ledintegral 'with the bearing 'breek H1 m whientne'spmdie vlut is journllledacA ge'ar |99, 'keydtoithe spindle 08, is driven by the 'gear 59, and .arolflr 'H8' is there# by'causd to rotate and, bearing' 'against the p'eriphery of tlfefeed'member 58, insurestlie/prper Such means comprise th'espiral gearsl 9'21 onf the con'tershaft between stud III5, serves to urge the roller into firm con-1l tact with the feed `member 58.

The cover division B3 is maintained in place byI the bolt II2 removably securing said cover to the bracket 54 and access to that part ofthe device is aorded thereby.l A handle I I3serves to enable the feeding and trimming unit to be manually swung about the post 3l into operative position relative to the form 23 and to be withdrawn when notinuse. I i "y l After a garment hasjbeen'placed on the form 23, the operator adjusts the arm 2I` according to desire, the height being indicated bythe indicia 26 on the rod 25. The pedal 28 is jthendepressed and the release ofthe usual'gripping mechanism being' lthus accomplished, the form 23 may be manually raised or loweredto the height of the arm 21. Thedevice at this stage is in the inoperative or outward position as'seen in Fig, l.

",E'hepedal 28 having vbeen released, the cutting andfeeding mechanism is swung on the post 3l andthe pedal 64 is depressed to allow of the insertion of the fabricbetween theunit 62 and the brush |03, between the `feed members 58 and "-43, and between the feed member 58 and the roller III). The pedal S4 is then released. The width of the hem' is ascertained andthe arm 94 is adjustedaccordingly.

The motors I6 and 35 are then started and the form 23 begins to rotate, the brush 93 maintains the fabric straight, the feed members 58 and 42--43, draw the fabric into the cutting zone, the circular-blade 4I, traveling at high speed, cuts the fabric, the roller III! draws on the lower portion of the garment above and belowthe cut, and supports and draws the cutsection away from the device while the wax marker 99, in combination i with the ribs Ama Af the drum'sn, marks the intermittent hem-line.

The motors I5 and 35are designed to operate at `the same speeds and the reduction gearing I1 and 4'4 are of the same ratio so that theform 23, the drum 80, vthe feedmembers 58 and i12- 43, and the roller IIB rotate at comparatively low speed, while the circular blade 4I rotates at a very high speed relative to these elements. f

' The instant devices makes possible the highspeed sloping of garments at a low cost Aand irrespective of the size of the garment being sloped.

VVarious elements contribute to effective and accurate sloping, but the .expense of manufacture of the machine is very low relative toits accom plishments, the high-speed circular knife being particularly effective and simple as compared to shearing elements, different sizes of which are required `for different sized dresses.

' While the device has been illustrated as constituting a single manufacture, it can be made to operate on forms which are standard in the industry. Only adaptation to operatively connect themotor I6 to such a standard form would be required while the cutting mechanism would remain unchanged.

I claim: y

l. 'A garment trimming machine comprising in combination a support for a garment, a rotating cutting member operating means therefor, feed means associated with and movable relative to said cutting member, and means for actuating said feed means to feed the material of said garment in the same direction as the movement of said cutter, although at a lower rate of speed.

2. A garment trimming machine comprising in combination a support for a garment, means to rotate said support around its axis, a rotating cutting member and rotatable feed means associated with said vcutting member, means for rotating said cutting member at a relatively high ratetof speed, and means for rotating said support 'and feed means at a lower rateof speed than said cutting member.

3. A garment trimming machine for trimming the bottom of a'garment supported on a form comprising a rotating cutting disk and feed means for "engaging the bottomy of `said garment and feeding the fabric thereof to said cutting disk, said feed rmeans including two peripherally opposed drum-like members rotating at a lower rate of speed than said cutting member,` and between which said fabric isefed to be acted upon by said Acutting' member, one of said drum-like members having a peripheral groove formed therein to accommodate the edge of lsaid rotating cutting member. i i

' 4; A garment trimming machine for trimming the bottom of a `garment supported on a form comprising a rotating cutting disk and feed means associated withsaid cuttingdisk, said feed means comprising two cylindrical members adapted to engage and feed between them the fabric' of said garment, one of said cylindrical members being split into two sections, said vcutting disk being rotatably disposed between the split sections of said cylindrical member in a plane perpendicularv Ato the longitudinal axis of said cylindrical member and having its cutting edge outwardly spaced from the periphery of said cylindrical member, said other cylindrical member being formed with a, peripheral groove for accommodating said cutting edge of said cutting disk.

5. A garment trimming machine according to claim 4 wherein said cylindrical members rotate to feed'the material of said garment toward said cutting disk, and said cutting disk rotates in the same direction although at a substantiallyhigher rate of speed than said cylindrical members.

6. A garment trimming machine for cutting the bottom of a garment'supported on a form, comprising a'rotating cutting disk, rotating feed means associated with said cutting disk for engaging and feeding the fabric of said garment thereto, a drum-like member rotating with said feed means and having spaced ribs formed thereon parallel to the longitudinal axis of,v said drum-like member, a marking device adjacent to said drum-like member and adapted to bear against said ribs, said feed means being adapted to feed the fabric of said garment between said drum-like member and said marking device, whereby a mark is made on said fabric as said marking device contacts successive ribs during the rotation of said drumlike member.

7. A garment trimming machine for cutting the bottom of a garment supported on a form, comprising a rotating cutting disk, feed means for engaging and feeding the fabric of said garment to said disk and means disposed anterior to said feedY means and cutting diskfor drawing on said garment so as to straighten the fabric of wrinkles before it is acted upon by said feed means.

8. 'A garment trimming machine according to claim 'l wherein said drawing means comprises a brush rotating diagonally and bearing against the fabric of said garment.

9.' A garment trimming machine comprising in combination, a support for a garment, a rotating cutting member, operating means therefor, feed means associated with and movable relative to said. cuttingv member4 including. peripherally op posed,` opp'ositely rotating. members, additional;- means for rotating each ofrsaidffeed membera. and manually operable.- mea-nstorimpart a. bodily-Y planetary movement toone ofV said. members; to; an; inoperative position relative to.- the. I opposed member andl simultaneously. disconnect.- thefirst named feed member from said lastrnamed means( 10. A. garment trimming machine comprising inl combination', a. support f or a-garmenti ai rotatv ing cutting member, operating4 means. therefor, feed means associatedwith and.movable:relative:` tosaid:- cutting member including peripherally-opfposed, oppositely rotating members, 'means for positively operating each of said: feed members', means: for mounting one of. said` members. for. yielding radial movement relative.` to the other during operation. thereof, and. manually operable means to imparta bodily planetary movementto: the: latter member to dispose said. member infan. inoperative position and disconnect the sameA from said operating meansv independently` of the connection of the other feed. member with said. operating means. n

1.1. In a garment trimmingmachine, av rotatable garment supporting form, a cutting station comprising a cutting knife, peripherallyopposed, oppositely. rotating feeding members having co.- acting parts immediately adjacent to. thecutting edge of the knife on opposite sides.. thereof,.be. tweenwhich the garment material is received. and. fed to saidk cutting edge. aty both sides ofthe line of. cut, and. meansv for actuating said feeding members.

12. In a garment trimming. machine. a rotatable garment-supporting form,. a feeding. and-cutting station comprising; a cutting knife, periph.A erally opposed, oppositely rotating.I feeding members betweenl which the garment fabric depending. from the form. is received.- and fed to. said knife, means for: rotating said members, and. means-lco-operating. Withr one of said. members beyond the point of cut to supDOrt the material trimmedfrom the garment.

13. In. a garment trimming. machine, a rotatable garment. supporting. form, a feeding. andeutting station comprisingy a cutting knife,.peniph. erally opposed, oppositely rotating feeding. meme bersfbetween which thegarment fabric depending from the form is received and fedto said. knife, means for rotating said members, a rotatable member peripherally cci-operating. with one of. said. feed. members beyond the. point. of. cut to.. support the material trimmedfrom thegarment, and` means operatively connecting said. rotatable. member with the means for rotating said. feed. members. l

14.. In a, garment trimming. machine, a. rotatable garment supporting form, arotatable. cutting. disk. and operating. means therefor, means for feeding, the garment. material depending from theform to said. cutting disk,.and a rotatable .meme ber. mounted in advance. of the point. 0f cut. to. engage. and apply tensioning. stress.. to the gar-v ment material prior to its. engagement.vr by saidv cutting disk..

15. In. a garment trimmingmachine, a rotat able` garment supporting, form, a. rotatable4` cutaserrada ting disk and. operating meanstherefonmeans forfeedingtha garmentmaterial depending, from; the fornr tosaid. cutting disk, and` a. diagonally positioned member inadvanceofthe. pointof cut. ton engage. and. apply alateral. tensioning, stress: to the; garment material prior.. to, its. engagement by saidcuttingdisk..

L6.. Incombination Withgarmenttrimmingand. feeding apparatus. including.y cutting means and. meansfor feeding thebottom portion ofagarmentto said cutting means; means for. marking the garment material a predetermined distance above the line ofcut simultaneously with. the

trimming., operation, saidmeans. comprising a.

drum, and circumferentially spacedprojectionsf on the periphery of the. drum coracting withsaid. marking element in the rotation ofjsaid drumto produce a circumferentially spaced succession. of" marks on. the garmentv material. simultaneously with the trimming operation.

I8. In. fabric. feeding. and. trimmingV apparatua a rotatable cutting.v disl. fabric feeding means associated4 therewithcomprising peripherally opposed, oppositely rotatable. cylindrical members between and. by which the,` fabric is. engaged and f'ed to the. cutting edge ofl said disk, one of' said.` feeding.y members having a circumferential grooveY in its periphery receiving the cutting ed'geof-.saidL disk. 19. In fabric feeding and trimming apparatus, a. rotatable cutting disk, a cylindrical. feeding member in. adjacent. co-axial relation with. said. disk, and. means. for rotatingl said disk and feed member in. the same. direction, at. relatively dif.'- ferent'speeds, from. a common source. of power.

20. In fabric feeding andi trimming. apparatus, a rotatable. cutting disk,l feed means includingcylindrical feed members at. opposite sides of.' said diskA in.Y adjacent co-axiall relation therewith, means` for rotating vsaid members inthe samedirection to. feed the fabric to the, cutting edge. of

said' disk, and means for rotating the. cutting disk,

in the same direction as said feed members? but: at a relatively higher speed.

Z1. In fabric feeding and trimming apparatus.. a rotatable cutting disk,.feed me'ansincludingcylindrical feed members at oppositesides. ofgsaid disk in adjacent co-axial relation*v therewith. means for. rotating said membersinjthesame-di'. rection to feed. the. fabric to the cuttingedgeofI said disk, means for rotating the cutting disk.. inL thesame direction as said feed members. but at a relatively higher speed, and a 'common operat` ing motor for bothof said two last namedmeans.

JAC'OB SCHLESINGER. 

